A WEEK IN: HVAR

Stepping off the ferry to be greeted by the warm salty breeze, swaying palm trees and yachts bobbing about, we knew we’d made the right choice for summer ‘22. This special island off the Dalmatian coast has something for everyone, having lured us for its crystal clear, secluded bays & range of beach clubs & nightlife, it also offers 13th century walls & hilltop fortress, windy old town cobble streets and luxury hotels.

GETTING THERE:

As there are no direct flights to Hvar from the UK, you fly into Split and get the ferry across which takes about an hour. From the airport to the ferry port it takes 30 minutes in a cab at €30-40 or there are shuttle buses running every half an hour costing €6. We chose to be wise and bus it, saving that money for more important things like overpriced cocktails and sun loungers. The ferry tickets can be bought online in advance for around €17 or you can get them on the day in a stressful last minute rush like we did.

WHERE TO STAY

Our accommodation for the first half of the holiday had three criteria's; close, clean and cheap, and this airbnb delivered. Good for you if you book these things in advance, you’ll find plenty of airbnbs scattered around the port with gorgeous views of the yachts you can’t afford. But if you’re like us and leave things to the last minute, you will find perfectly lovely airbnbs a 5 minute walk from the old town.

After 4 nights in the cheap and cheerful airbnb, we packed our bags and drove 10 minutes north of the island for a little more rest and recoup.

Little Green Bay has been on our list for years. The small 15-room boutique hotel is located in a secluded, pine-scented bay and serves understated luxury. Expect polished concrete, linen bedding, earthy tones and outdoor showers. There is a restaurant set over two levels to give maximum views of the bay, offering simple Mediterranean cuisine and cocktails that go down a little too easy. The pebbled beach below is adorned with black canvas lounges, parasols and giant bean bags that float in the ocean, and although these are all beautiful it’s the little things that leaves that lasting impression. Trendy straw hats, premium suncream and chic board games were available for guests to use during their stay as well as paddle boards and canoes to explore the coast. Immersed in the sounds of nature, it’s easy to forget this authentic guesthouse is just down the road from the bustling old town.

WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast:

• Fig - drunk and most definitely lost in the old town, we stumbled across this buzzy restaurant. Lured in by fairy lights and tables spilling onto the street, we returned for breakfast the very next day. The kitchen offers spicy eggs, breakfast burritos with the freshest ingredients and delicious flavours. We came back twice for breakfast & once for dinner. Enough said.

• Kava - best coffee on the island so expect a 10 minute wait for your flat white, it’s worth it. Their stone speckled mugs and yummy pastries make this a favourite pit stop when you have somewhere to be.

• Kantun - again, another spot we stumbled across in the old town, this window in the wall offers freshly squeezed juices, freshly brewed coffee and delicious pastries. Grab a stool and enjoy.

Dinner:

• Fig - perfect for when you want no fuss, good food. Must try the tomato and onion jam flatbread.

• Dalmatino - a family owned restaurant a stone’s throw from the main square offering simple but delicious fish, meat and pasta dishes. The restaurant is so popular we tried for 3 nights to get in and succeeded 4th-time lucky. There is something in wanting what we can’t have.

• Black Pepper - full disclosure we never ate here but multiple people told us it’s a must visit but unfortunately we couldn’t get a seat. Walking past, their tables spilled out of the little courtyard onto the fairly light-adorned street and had a lovely buzzy but intimate atmosphere.

• Lola Street Food - after walking past this restaurant and hearing them play absolute bangers, we got a table at the bar and indulged ourselves in chicken wings, bao buns, gyozas and sweet potato fries. The staff were brilliant and had people dancing on their chairs while they handed out shots on the house. Our go-to spot after an evening partying at beach clubs.

Speaking of beach clubs…

• Hula hula - we dare you to walk past hula and not end up staying all night. The perfect spot to watch the sun go down whilst enjoying funky cocktails and vibey DJ’s. It's a firm favourite and a guaranteed good time.

• Falko - when you think you’ve walked too far past Hula, walk a little further and you’ll discover Falko. Nestled in the trees with sails offering the relief of dappled shade, this chilled spot has daybeds teetering on rocks, delicious food and easy to sip drinks. It was our favourite lounge-all-day spot.

• Carpe Diem - located on the Paklinski islands, carpe diem is accessible by a rickety taxi boat that costs €6-7pp return. This boujje beach club is the type to charge you more if, god forbid, you wanted a towel on your sunlounger. The food was great however, and the vibe went from chilled during the day to lively come sunset. This venue closes at 10pm to reopen at midnight to host a range of DJ's in the forest.

• Laganini Lounge Bar and Fish House - this fish restaurant and bar is giving wood shack chic. Attentive staff, fresh seafood plates and located in a quiet bay of the Paklinski islands all made it a gorgeous spot for a lazy afternoon.

• Calma Beach Bar - accessible only by boat, this idyllic beach bar is the stuff of dreams, nestled at the back of the bay it feels like you're totally off the grid and was recommended to us by one of the locals. You can hire beds for the day or moor up at sunset to relax with a drink in hand.

• Beach Club Hvar - disclaimer, we didn't end up visiting here as the cheapest bed for the day was €50 per person!! We did check out the lunch menu and everything sounded delicious but the vibe felt flat, maybe one for a quite day if you have the cash spare.