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A WEEK IN: MILOS
We will admit, booking our flights was solely fuelled by *that* viral moonscape beach. Everything else was a bonus. Hidden coves, quaint tavernas and winding alleys that often lead to nothing but a modest whitewashed church, Milos is everything for a taste of the simple life. Sun, sea, spinach feta pie.
Read on for our express guide to Milos; where to stay, where to eat and where to enjoy a peaceful sunset on this unique little island. Keep scrolling for our lowdown on the array of beaches.
STAY
First tip: if you were toying with whether to hire a car, do it. On this small island you can nip around from one end to the other in about an hour, so location doesn't need to limit where you stay. You can just road trip the rest. And despite it's compact nature, Milos isn't short on stylish places to stay.
We had read that the port of Adamas, or Adamantas as it is also called, was one of the buzzier spots on the island so we opted for accommodation here. However Pollonia was another village that kept coming up but was reportedly quieter. Having now been, we can conclude that both have packed-out restaurants, both have boat trips departing from their harbours and both have a delicious bakery to eat your way round.
OUR STAY
We came across Civitas Milos and couldn't not stay there. This boutique hotel just outside Adamas has six adults-only suites, each opening out onto their own plunge pool, with the port in the distance. The rooms are simple and modern with natural finishes that soften the space, from the pebble-shape sinks to the cave-like wet room. An undeniably beautiful stay that feels peaceful and rural, while still being a 10 minute drive to the port, or a random 40-minute walk along backroads if like us you're down for that.
It’s worth mentioning that we had little hope in our hotel existing at the time of booking, but don’t let the lack of reviews, non-existent tagged photos or non-refundable-bank-transfer-to-book deter you. The hotel only opened a month before our trip (August 2022) and is everything the idyllic photos alluded to. Be vigilant but also we think that's how a lot of small establishments run in the Adriatic, especially somewhere as lowkey as Milos.
OTHER PLACES TO STAY
It almost feels a waste to not share the other stays we once saw a future with, so here are the ones that got away. Mainly due to lack of availability or the fact that we were looking mere weeks before visiting.
PERLA SUITES ££
EAT
This tiny horseshoe island packs a lot in down its winding cobbled streets. From beachfront seafood spots to traditional tavernas, here are all the places we ate at and loved.
TAVERNAS
MARINA
Port Adamas
A vision in blue and white, this intimate restaurant was packed out with locals. The humble decor, paired with the yia yias in the kitchen, gives the place an inviting, family-owned feel. Order the tzatziki and melitzanosalata dips to start and the meatballs and rabbit for main. It doesn't look pretty but it was up there in top two dinners of the trip.
Plaka
A buzzy restaurant in the winding streets of Plaka, the capital of Milos. We were half human-half fava by this point and we weren't about to stop now. Here they serve theirs with octopus, which we diluted with a bowl of moussaka. The restaurant has has tables inside and out, draped in bougainvillea. Head here for dinner for a buzzy vibe, there's a few others also located in the same secluded square which seem equally busy and equally as cute.
Papikinou beach
Set just off the road that hugs Papikinou beach, we found this taverna on our drive back from a day at Fyriplaka beach. From the front it could be mistaken for a roadside kiosk, but beyond the living vine wall is a large garden terrace with unexpected homely touches, from framed hanging photos to the handwritten book menus. Before even going into the food, take a moment for the monogrammed tableware please. The food is comfort food at its finest, with everything provided for by their farm, so you can expect incredible goat, soul-warming dips and homemade greek pasta.
BEACH RESTAURANTS
Paliochori beach
Expect a side of theatre with this spot. Taking full advantage of its volcanic surroundings at Paliochori, your fish is buried and cooked in the hot volcanic sand before being expertly prepared at your table. Saunter back to their plush sun loungers out front after.
Mandrakia beach
Festooned in sun-drying octopuses proudly hanging outside, this restaurant was heaving. The charm with this seafood restaurant is finding it down in the fishing village at Mandrakia beach which, spoiler alert, isn't a beach beach. What it is, is a beautiful toe-dip into one of the island's historic fishing villages. Have a mooch around the bay, have a swim and grab lunch at this restaurant.
Klima
Another traditional fishing village, Klima is lined with the iconic colourful houses of fishermen, known as symrata, which sit above their boat storage below. Walk along the shore and have a nosey into these beautiful homes if you're lucky, before catching the sunset at Astakas. PSA it may look like a walkable distance from Plaka but the descent is steep and unlit. Take the car or get a cab.
BAKERIES
We are big fans of walking around in search of something sweet after dinner and while there were various dessert parlours, such as Aggeliki, but a solid bakery is all we needed.
ARTEMIS
Adamas
We raided this bakery most days, often twice, from spanakopita to bougatsa, dolma to baklava. We absolutely recommend you do the same.
PRATIGOS
Pollonia
Spending the day in a new village, our first stop was to scope out the bakery. We had the best spanakopita of the trip and tried a summer specialty watermelon pie here, aka karpouzopita, and it was something completely new to us. Think chewiness of a brownie edge with the texture of a thin glutinous cake. Very unique and very delicious.
DRINK
Unlike the glitz and glamour of Mykonos or Santorini, Milos isn't one for the wild hen dos and boat parties. It's enchanting and modest nature makes it feel untouched in comparison, focusing more on the quieter life. Unwind with the rest of the island, . We had a few faves for exactly this, from a sunset rooftop lounge to intimate cocktail bars at night.
Plaka
Starting with our no.1 drinking hole of the trip, this boho rooftop lounge sits within the picturesque hilltop and the island's capital, Plaka, making this bar the place to be to catch the sunset. Think tuft-edge bean bags, low lounge chairs and woven rugs, all in a clash of patterns that somehow seems to work. We have to say that it beats Utopia Cafe, which is in every recommendations list for sunset bars and restaurants, hands down. Don't waste your time in the queue.
Pollonia
Halfway along the bay of pollonia beach and half submerged in the trees lining it, this casual beachfront bar comes at just the right point in the walk for a pitstop. Stay here for an alpha or four and watch the peaceful waves lap at the edge.
Adamas
An intimate cocktail bar made for a post-dinner tipple, with casual step-seating and familiar music that fills the little streets below, we could easily spend all night here.
Adamas
One of the more lively cocktail bars, this one overlooks the port with a range of levels and quiet nooks for a more intimate ambience. Just watch out for the cats as there is as many of them as there are people.
BEACHES
Milos is framed with breath-taking beaches and waters blue enough to make a bottle of Bombay fair; it is hard not to fall in love with their undiscovered character. No shops, no unsightly hotels, just natural beauty. Given the limited space you might think that the popular beaches would be overflowing with crowds, but we were pleasantly surprised to find parking and more importantly, prime sunbathing spots at the big names, even arriving gone-midday. Each beach brings a different personality and here are the ones worth visiting.
NORTH
SARAKINIKO
The A-lister and the reason for our trip, Sarakiniko's incredible lunar landscape serves both those who like to get lost in a good book and those who like to jump off rocks. A little tip, explore the mesmerising landscape at golden hour to pick up the true rock curves on camera. Do bring snacks, water and anything else you need as there are no shops or eateries nearby.
PAPAFRAGAS
We almost missed this little cove if not for a few cars parked up on the roadside, so we stopped off to have a look on our way to Fyriplaka. A peaceful sandy cove one side with brilliant rock formations on the other for launching off plus a hidden beach via caves to discover. Again, one for the picnics or have a restaurant stop-off up your sleeve as there is nothing but sunbathing to do here.
POLLONIA
A wider stretch of beach on what feels like a calm lake. Walk round the harbour to see the beautiful whitewashed houses on the far left and you’ll find the Chapel of Agios Nikolaos. Keep going round the left and you’ll be met with stunning boutique hotels on their own patch of secluded beach. Plenty of restaurants decorate the main shorefront, we made note of Enalion, so no need for packed lunch here.
SOUTH
TSIGRADO
One we didn't get a chance to get to thanks to the weather, however it is definitely one that is calling us back. With a ladder and rope down to the beach, this isn't one for everyone. Although it can also be accessed by boat, so that's one way around it (albeit minus some fun).
FYRIPLAKA
This impressive sandy beach is wide with sunbeds, a little beach bar playing beach chillout tunes and shallow turquoise waters that allow you to wade forever. It is decorated with cliffs in striking reds indicative of its volcanic rock formations.
PALIOCHORI
Another beach embedded in the iconic volcanic rock, Paliochori has a few beach restaurants to choose from, a little beach shop and water sports shack. It even has showers and loos which is clearly a luxury. This is where we ate fish from the hot volcanic sand at Sirocco restaurant mentioned above.
BOAT ACCESS ONLY
We highly recommend booking a boat trip as there are so many incredible beaches that simply aren't reachable by land. Look out for trips that tick off the below at a minimum.
GERAKAS
This is a very small sandy beach with no land-access. Swim ashore to the teeniest stretch of sand for a false sense of pioneering.
KASTANAS
Visit here for a secluded beach with the most striking colourful rocks.
KLEFTIKO
Stop here and swim or paddle through the caves created by volcanic rock.
It's clear that Milos is on the rise as a holiday destination and while this is brilliant for the island, we are glad it looks like there is still some time to experience this Cycladic dreamland in all its authentic charm.
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