A WEEKEND IN: MARGATE

Up-and-coming gets thrown about a lot these days, but Margate is one of the success stories (we’ve been burnt by a few lately that need a little more emphasis on the latter part of the title). Generation Boomer might find it hard to accept, having grown up with the Kentish seaside town in its tired years, but with boutique hotels and independent restaurants popping up, colourful old-town streets and it being just under two hours on a train from London, Margate should very much be on your radar.

It feels buzzy but not busy. Full of hotspots but not overwhelmingly that you’ll have fomo that you can’t do it all. It’s the perfect blend of happening ‘up’ and undiscovered ‘coming’. Below we’ve pulled together all the places we very much consider worth visiting, whether you’re down for the day or making a weekend of it.

Breakfast & brunch

Breakfast included. We can only think of two other words less relevant in our lives and that’s ‘all inclusive’. As it is, there aren’t enough meals in the day to fit in every food spot on our list, so we can’t be wasting one at our accommodation. Margate is full of breakfast, brunch and coffee spots and here’s a round-up of our faves.

First was the hunt for a good coffee and Doubloons - a new pop-up on the block - delivered, with their innovative and unusual cold brew blends. Be quick, this is only around until the end of September 2023. Big Shot Diner is hot on filter coffee and can be found along the parade, overlooking the golden plains of Margate Beach. Clue’s in the name, Big Shot Diner also serves up diner-style food - think mammoth grilled cheese sandwiches and loaded waffles. For a snack to-go, Staple Stores is a new artisanal bakery located in the Turner Contemporary gallery, and is known for its impressive cronuts and pastry creations. Oast is another wholesome neighbourhood bakery on the way to Cliftonville, a short wander along the seafront, turning in-land at the iconic beacon that is the Lido pillar, and head straight for their delicious chocolate orange cardamom buns and freshly-baked breads. Savoury-philes should seek out Picnic Deli, the trendy provisions stockist for all your sandwich, cheese and natural wine needs. One of stokey’s finest, The Good Egg, has made the journey from the big smoke to the seaside. This Middle Eastern-inspired brunch house is famous for its babka and is great for a quick bite to take away, or to dine in with the shakshuka and its proper brunch menu. For hearty sandos, homemade sausage rolls and a hint of sea-view, Forts Cafe oozes east-end hipster whether you like to admit you love it or not. Meanwhile, very much the opposite lies waiting back in the old town; Wildes is the ultimate all-day boozy brunch spot with rattan interiors, chillout tunes and a day-to-night vibe that spills out onto the streets.

Lunch & dinner

If you thought you were spoiled for choice at breakfast…prepare yourself for lunch and dinner.

Seafood lovers can enjoy daily-changing menus at Angela’s and sister restaurant Dory’s, both with a strong focus on local, sustainably-sourced fish. Angela’s is an intimate restaurant just off the esplanade with handwritten blackboard menus, bistro dining chairs and statement table tops made from - we had to ask as we originally thought they were a masterpiece of shell - compressed recycled-plastic. Head to Dory’s for a lighter lunch of pickled, cured and raw seafood small plates. And then located on the lively harbour arm is Sargasso, the wine bar and seasonal small plates outpost of East London’s Brawn. Eat here, taste the wine and keep your eyes peeled for Sargasso Sundays music events.

Eating food from your own plate seems almost archaic in the wake of small plates, but at the newly-opened kitchen at Sete it is a welcome relief. We would tell you to order the sausage and white bean cassoulet, but their chef whips up a lot of the menus almost daily. Serving over 50 wines by the glass, they make it easy to taste a variety of wines without breaking the bank. This is probably the longest we have gone without mentioning pasta, but you’ll find traditional dishes at Bottega Caruso. This family-run Italian restaurant that sits in the heart of the old town also sells its fresh pastas, artisan tomato sauces and other treats, while putting on pasta-making classes and supper clubs too.

Drinks

Always ones to sniff out a roof terrace, we beelined for the newly-opened 42 Guesthouse rooftop bar which is located in a more tranquil setting four floors up. Natural furnishings of low wooden tables, leather lounge chairs and boucle pouffes, it could easily pass for a scene by the ultra-chic Carmel-by-the-Sea. Our top pick for our golden hour bevs. If you want to enjoy pretty cocktails with a buzzing atmosphere, all-day brunch spot Wildes has the chillout tunes going day til night. For more casual drinking spots, Little Swift and Big Shot Diner are perfect. Both these compact double-ended drinking holes are located along the parade with easy access to the sunset. While Big Shot has its small menu of diner grub, Little Swift serves cheese and charcuterie boards but if you fancy more, we were kindly allowed to bring back a Peter’s Fish Factory, i.e. the local delicacy. Finally, exclusively open on Fridays and Saturdays, you will find retro Margate Off Licence whose windows perfectly frame the iconic Lido beacon over stylish cocktails and a great soundtrack.

Stay

42 Guesthouse

£149-£396 a night (smallest room; guest room)

The boutique hotel group has opened their fourth door, No.42 in Margate, to join their portfolio of stylish UK staycations. We only visited for a drink on their impeccable roof terrace but can only imagine the rooms. It’s the sort of classy establishment that remembers your anniversary from you mentioning it at your swift midday drink, to be met with a complimentary glass of fizz on your return visit. It’s this level of service that will have us returning in a heartbeat.

Margate House Hotel

£150-£225 a night (smallest room; small)

Since announcing their opening earlier this year, we’d been stalking the Margaret House on IG weekly, obsessing over the bold interiors and blush-tone walls so as soon as we could we got straight to booking one of the nine en-suite bedrooms, opting for the small in this restored Victorian townhouse. The statement panelled hallway welcomes you in like the home of one of your mum’s trendy girlfriends who’s really into colour-blocking, eclectic furniture and big on art. The friend who also leaves her perfumes out in the drawing room for you to spritz before you head out, this hotel is full of little touches to make your stay memorable. Chatting with the hotel owner, Will let us know that they are planning on opening their own cafe/restaurant in the coming months with local chefs using the space for foodie pop-ups next year.

The Beetroot

£100 a night

The Beetroot saved us when we were looking for affordable accommodation on our first visit. Paul, the owner, was a fellow north Londoner and looked after us as only the rave reviews online had suggested. Located in the heart of the old town but secluded enough for a restful night, we couldn’t recommend this independent hotel enough.

Things to do & see

In the little time we had off-duty from eating and drinking, we squeezed in our third favourite pastime - mooching. We have been loving antique furniture shopping and Margate has some great ones dotted around its winding streets. Along Northdown Road you’ll find a variety of second hand and vintage shops with Clueit Webb offering already-varnished, upholstered and tarted-up mid-century modern pieces.

If you told us ten years ago that a three-hour coastal walk would be our idea of fun, oh we would have laughed, but it is often the best way to see an area. The route is very flat and manageable, and leads you through the beautiful rock formations at Botany Bay through to Broadstairs. Stop off for a well-deserved lunch at Wyatt and Jones, situated in Viking Bay, for responsibly-sourced, seasonal seafood.