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PORTUGAL'S BEST KEPT SECRET
Most people flock to the Algarve in Portugal and rightly so; it is beautiful. However, it is also full of English tourists and resorts. For those looking for a more authentic vacation, the west coast flaunts its small towns, large nature reserves and wide, sweeping beaches.
We were lucky enough to take a trip to Portugal right before the government once again toyed with the travel corridors so we are currently writing to you from the realms of quarantine to let you know why it is a must visit.
It's easy to fall in love with the relaxed vibe this corner of the world has to offer. It has been dubbed the Hamptons of Europe so there is no denying the west coast is the place to be. Comporta, just over an hour's drive from Lisbon, is a firm favourite with all the celebs and if it's good enough for them...
Whether you are looking for a rustic rattan villa or a modernist cabana is more your vibe, scroll down for our round-up of the best luxury stays in the area.
OUR WEEK IN PORTUGAL
We flew into Lisbon, which demands its own blog post, and spent the day there before driving down to a small town called Azeitao in Setubal. Surrounded by the National park of Arrabida it's the place for hiking and biking around the gorgeous trails, all of which can be found here.
After we'd put our legs to good use and built up our appetite, we headed into the small town and grabbed breakfast at the local cafe, Casa Negrito - the perfect little escape from the sun for people-watching and tucking into warm pastries and freshly-brewed coffee all in for no more than a few euros. This was our daily morning routine before heading off and exploring the beaches.
THE BEACHES
We were taken aback by Figueirinha Beach as these bright white sands reminded us more of the Bahamas than Portugal. Small coves are nestled in between large rocks, making for the perfect secluded spots to hunker down and relax before the tide saunters in.
Come 4pm, we decided to make the 20 minute walk to Galapos Beach - the road is closed during the summer months to prevent over-crowding but the walk is definitely worth it.
First stop was the local beach bar for mojitos and beers, and at €4 a pop you can't complain. A few bevs down, we headed off to find a quite spot to soak up the last of the day's rays and watch as the sunset rolled out before us.
In the evening we headed back to Azeitao town for dinner at Casa das Tortas, a small local restaurant with an open grill, alfresco dining and traditional Portuguese food. You can't ignore the sharing nature of these places, so get stuck in with the meat and cheese platters to start, the tomahawk steak and just-caught sea bass for mains and any of their traditional desserts to top it all off.
After 4 nights in Azeitao we drove an hour down to Comporta to enjoy the chic beach front restaurants and bars and explore Portugal's version of Saint-Tropez. The drive alone was breathtaking; Portugal is much greener than its neighbour Spain and use most of their trees for cork. Fun fact: Portugal is the biggest producer of cork in the world and harvests the outer bark from cork oak every 9 years. Be impressing all your pals with that next time you pop a bottle!!
THINGS TO DO
If the views and beach clubs aren't enough to keep you busy, there are plenty of activities to satiate the doers and non-doers alike.
After breakfast - charcuterie board of local cheeses, meats and fruit - the boys headed out to one of the many golf courses in the area, while we headed out for a horseback ride on the beach. It is the perfect way to explore the countryside and ride along Europe's longest stretch of undeveloped and protected coasts at 57km long.
We were met with a chilly sea mist but that didn't stop us riding in the ocean and learning all about the area from our brilliantly knowledgeable guide. Another fun fact incoming: Not only is Portugal a large producer of cork, Comporta produces enough rice for the whole of the country, meaning it's one of the few items they don't have to import. We are spoiling you.
Dolphin watching
During your stay in Comporta, spend half a day visiting the local pod of dolphins actively living within the fresh water of the Sado Estuary. The community of Sado Bottlenose Dolphins were first identified in 1981 and are carefully monitored and tracked.
WHERE TO EAT
Now on to the good stuff. Our first night we ate at Sal's beach front restaurant which is also a great lunch spot.
Is there anything better than fresh fish, caught that morning, washed down with a local white wine, watching the sunset?
During July and August, Sal's puts on beach parties known to last until 2am; the perfect blend of beach boho and the Ibiza party scene. Of course with everything going on at the moment we couldn't experience this but it's definitely an excuse to return when things are back to some normality!
The next day we headed down to the highly recommended Sublime Beach Club for lunch and we. were. not. ready. The restaurant had a little something to live up to with a name like that but it fully exceeded it. Everything from the views, beaut food, flowing wine and amazingly friendly and helpful staff had us coming back for dinner the very next night - a huge deal when we make a habit of trying somewhere new each night to make the very most of a trip.
If we could imagine our perfect holiday moments, this restaurant would tick every box and throw in some boxes we didn't even know we needed; that warm, laid-back luxury that makes you feel at home eating top quality food and being served by staff that feel like a family. We had the ceviche de garoupa, fried baby cuttlefish, string beans tempura and the delicious Maine lobster brothy rice to share. Highly recommend.
After a boozy lunch in the sun, the only thing left to do was run straight for the ocean - cold enough to shock the alcohol right out of you - before nestling into that white gold sand for a post-lunch nap.
On our last night, we made our way into Comporta town to mooch around the boutique and home interiors shops before instantly dragging myself away before all my money could be whisked away.
We stopped for some sundowners in a local bar before dinner, all the while under surveillance by the storks that nest above on roofs and chimneys. The town holds its authentic and local feel and, without hearing a hint of a British accent for days, you feel much further than the 3-hour flight to get here.
PLACES TO STAY
There are plenty of luxury stays to choose from in this area so we've rounded up a few of our favourites below...
A wellness boutique resort offering exclusivity alongside a rustic, authentic experience
via booking .com
A beautifully designed villa with an equally impressive pool
via booking.com
Prime location to Azeitao town!
The name says it all...
We stayed in the gorgeous Spatia Comporta, a chic but minimalist hotel tucked away in the forest. Every corner of this resort is designed just beautifully and perfectly marries together nature with luxe living.
People come to Comporta for the feel of St Tropez and Ibiza before the masses arrived and left their mark, so we are definitely keeping this in our back pocket to keep coming back to before the same happens here.
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