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OUR 2024 RESTAURANT SHORTLIST
Looking back on our year and we did some good eating. A lot of new-found favourites. We've narrowed them down to the hottest 10 of where we loved in 2023 and will return again and again below.
Soho
One of those stylish places that shocks you with not only good looks but its inventive menu too. Chef Tom Cenci brings his style to British comfort food, from black pudding in brioche and homemade beans on toast under a cloud of parmesan to Cenci’s twist on the sausage and egg muffin we all know and love. Located on the ground floor of 1 Warwick members’ house, this neighbourhood restaurant lets you dip a toe in laidback luxury, where mid-century pieces fill the room with vintage charm. The ‘Not your Avocado on Toast’ on their brunch menu shines a light on a more sustainable green for your brunch aesthetic.
Soho
Leaving the tourist traps of Soho and exploring her back streets, you’ll find Rita’s, an American-inspired diner with experimental cocktails and a low intervention wine menu. The intimate restaurant is warmed with soft orb lighting hanging over the retro bar, tiled lime green and brown. Little half curtains work not only to woo us but frame the two window seats perfectly for an evening watching Soho unfold.
Clerkenwell
Locating the secret red door and ascending into the restaurant feeling rich, you come to see why this spot is dubbed ‘London's most beautiful restaurant’. The double-height ceilings, statement arched crittall windows and forest green leather booths are an appropriate backdrop to the plates of buttery soft fish, delicate croquettes and a doorstop of bread definitely worth the fiver. During the summer months they open their small outdoor terrace and bar, where we’d like to perch under a parasol and sip an artisanal cocktail or two.
London Fields
What was supposed to be a temporary pop-up by chef Tomos Parry is still going strong under the arches of London Fields, and entering into the marquee you feel part of an elite crew who know of its secret presence. Hailed for its wood-fired fish and seasonal veg, Brat’s menu changes daily, as suggested by the old school blackboard menu, with an ethos of great British produce served Basque-style. In other words, simple sharing dishes done well. Our must-orders, apart from the daily grilled fish, have to be the chard fritto, the cuttlefish and artichoke stew and the grilled leeks, which we’re 100% calling as the next hispi cabbage. Major BDE (big dish energy). We’re already booking our return for the roast chicken rice we didn’t have get to try.
Shoreditch
Sheltered from the lively Shoreditch High Street behind a corrugated iron door you’ll find Oranj, 2023’s viral wine bar. Barely lit by the moon orb lighting (can you see a theme here) and dripping candles, this cosy yet industrial space is perfect for catching up with the girls or for relaxed date night. The kitchen has monthly rotating chefs and cuisines, with natural wines and a selection of cocktails, as well as a vibey soundcloud playlist, adhering seamlessly to the trendy Shoreditch scene. Although with that does risk a crowd of giant halo scrunchies and brightly coloured gazelles (guilty).
Battersea/Tottenham Court Road
While there are now quite a few different food halls dotted around the city, we have found ourselves returning to the Arcade’s two branches for the more dine-in experience they provide while still keeping it flexible with cuisine. With two spots in Battersea Power Station and Tottenham Court Road, they share many of the same kitchens but you’ll find a few exclusives at Battersea branch such as Thomas Straker’s iconic flatbreads and Phed Power, serving up fragrant Thai food including the fiercest pad krapow we have faced. Our must orders have to be the Manna smash burger from the chef and owner of stokey’s Bake Street, the chicken MoMo from Nepalese Tipan Tapan, the prawn toast from Cantonese Siu Siu and massaman curry from North Indian Hero.
Soho
London’s highly-anticipated opening from the owners of Brat, it opened late last year and was instantly the spot to get a booking. A Mallorcan-inspired menu and set over two floors, the upstairs is warm and bright with a large open kitchen and wrap-around windows looking out onto Soho's trendiest cobbled streets, whilst downstairs is low-lit with spotlights, bar-top dining and a vinyl soundtrack. We favoured the simple dishes; crispy wood-fired oven rice, butter-drenched roasties and ex-dairy friesian sirloin. Save room for sweet, there’s torrijas with pear, a light french toast and poached pear, and the ensaïmada, a mallorcan pastry served with hazelnut ice cream.
London Fields
A room of simple touches. Wooden tables and chairs, white walls plain other than the black-framed photographs and drenched in sunbeams through the wall of glass. During those rare warmer months, canalside tables dressed in crisp white tablecloths decorate the pavement outside which we were lucky enough to claim on our visit. The food is unfussy and seasonal with the daily changing menu found on a chalkboard. We ordered small plates of marinated peppers and seabass carpaccio with the main being chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce with chunky sourdough to mop the plate clean. Desserts are comfort dishes like deep-fried bread and butter pudding and Guinness bread ice cream, however the city heatwave had us finish with margaritas in the sun. Full, tipsy and content.
Dalston
Forget the polished Jazz bars of the city, this rough-and-ready eatery has you sitting on plastic school chairs back-to-back with your table neighbour and the band only feet away. The ever-changing and limited menu is predominantly seafood that comes as it comes, and never disappoints. Think bowls full of meaty prawns in a fresh tomato sauce with more than enough bread to dunk, whole fish prepared for sharing and oysters on ice. Pair all this with a few bottles of bubbles and live music, you’ve got yourself a great night with friends. Once the second sitting of 8pm has finished their food, be prepared for your table to be whipped from under you as the band packs away and the waiter-turned-spotify-DJ takes his place and the jazz bar turns into a mini nightclub. What better than to dance away your meal to classic bangers and throwbacks.
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